Sangiovese

Sangiovese is the only red Italian variety to travel much, and indeed is the major classic variety once you're out of Piedmont. Good sangiovese, as epitomised (albeit in a blend, frequently) in decent Chianti, has smells and flavours of bitter cherries, green leafy characters, hints of tomatoes, and a rasping kick of tannin and acidity, which makes it a great match with many Italian dishes. A different clone of the same variety makes huge, burly, longlived wines, as Brunello di Montalcino. Typical Italy; contradications everywhere!