Riesling

THE cult grape variety of the moment, thank God. Riesling's reputation was wrecked in the 80s by the dismal rubbish hitting our shelves from Germany. In truth it makes some of the most astonishingly beautiful, delicate wines, light in body and yet astonishingly intense in flavour, as well as being capable of great longevity. It's wonderful food wine, too, going brilliantly with most dishes, especially those from the Orient. The Aussies have weighed in with some great dry examples, but for the real thing go back to Germany and don't be scared of a little residual sweetness - it gives the wine lovely curves.